Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred metropolises across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city comes as no surprise to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always shaped its essence: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – hidden treasures that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to learn these stories and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
